Cheesemaker, dairyman, shepherd: words long spoken in the masculine. Issue 33 of Mangiavino climbs to the high pastures of Carnia and the Dolomites with three women who are rewriting that grammar. Then it returns to the vineyards. There it finds a Friulano that has traded power for grace, and the labels of Livon, Muzic and Ermacora, where a wine speaks before it is poured. The issue closes with a walk through Alvaro Pecorari's Isonzo Valley, where glacial stones meet the slopes of the Collio.<br><br>This is a selection of stories in English from the bimonthly magazine on wine and food culture, published in collaboration with AIS Friuli Venezia Giulia.

In Focus

ALPINE DAIRIES AND TRANSUMANCE A TIME FOR WOMEN

Future and Innovation

THE FRIULIAN HAS ALREADY GOT IT ALL FIGURED OUT

All Round

WHERE WINE TAKES SHAPE

ISONZO VALLEY THE LAND OF DREAMS

All Round ISONZO VALLEY THE LAND OF DREAMS Bruno Cataletto A stroll through Alvaro Pecorari s vineyard, where the southern slopes of the Collio region meet the glacial plateaus. One of the leading figures in the white wine revolution of the 1970s and 1980s, he now invites us, with his Lis Neris winery, to take up the challenge of producing wines with greater ageing potential I  ve always believed that to make a superior wine, you need a superior setting, says Alvaro Pecorari, owner of the Lis Neris winery, and, as he utters these words, his face conveys all the conviction and passion that this simple statement embodies. We are walking amongst the rows of his vines in San Lorenzo Isontino, in the Isonzo Valley. Ever since he was a boy, Alvaro Pecorari has inherited from his family   who have been dedicated to viticulture ever since these lands were under Habsburg rule   that sense of belonging and vocation essential to standing out. It is a rural heritage of which he is very proud. 12 

A meeting point As we continue on our way, we are invited Pre-Alpine rock formations, whilst south of to pause and take in the landscape around the city the landscape changes completely. us, where the southern slopes of the Collio The glacial meltwater encountered ancient, meet the glacial plateaus of the Isonzo exposed seabeds, eroding them more Valley. The valley is a product of the last freely and depositing rounded, greyish European ice age. North of Gorizia, the limestone rocks known as claps. glacier carved its way through Alpine and Primordial soil  On this soil which is still in its primordial clash between mountain and sea climates state,  Alvaro explains,  our vines are are what create the balance of acidity and planted.  It is from the soil that they the aromatic profile. The  magic triangle  of absorb the elements that give our wines Gorizia-Cormons-Gradisca has everything their structure and energy, whilst the needed to produce superior wines. temperature fluctuations, the wind and the The White Wine Revolution Memories are slowly resurfacing, particularly game. Our winegrower s generation seized those of witnessing what Alvaro describes the opportunity, provided the impetus and as the Italian White Wine Revolution, which capitalised on these values. They faced began right here in Gorizia in the 1970s. A challenges and managed to nurture their revolution that reclaimed traditional values relationship with their parents, who had and modern knowledge. Just a few bottles been  hardened  by a much more difficult were enough to change the rules of the life experience. Challenges of identity Today, however, we face new challenges no longer realistic. Ageing and maturation that are not merely production-related, but open up new possibilities for wines that above all concerns of identity. Alvaro argues lend themselves to prolonged ageing, and that a decisive shift in mindset is needed. Lis Neris has decided to forge a bond with As a matter of fact, the notion that white time and with the values of a prestigious wine is synonymous with young wine is terroir to uncover its unique qualities. 13 

Women of the alpine dairies, a new Friulano, the stories behind Friulian wine labels and the Isonzo Valley. June 2026 issue