Cheesemaker, dairyman, shepherd: words long spoken in the masculine. Issue 33 of Mangiavino climbs to the high pastures of Carnia and the Dolomites with three women who are rewriting that grammar. Then it returns to the vineyards. There it finds a Friulano that has traded power for grace, and the labels of Livon, Muzic and Ermacora, where a wine speaks before it is poured. The issue closes with a walk through Alvaro Pecorari's Isonzo Valley, where glacial stones meet the slopes of the Collio.<br><br>This is a selection of stories in English from the bimonthly magazine on wine and food culture, published in collaboration with AIS Friuli Venezia Giulia.

In Focus

ALPINE DAIRIES AND TRANSUMANCE A TIME FOR WOMEN

Future and Innovation

THE FRIULIAN HAS ALREADY GOT IT ALL FIGURED OUT

All Round

WHERE WINE TAKES SHAPE

ISONZO VALLEY THE LAND OF DREAMS

In Focus ALPINE DAIRIES AND TRANSUMANCE A TIME FOR WOMEN Francesco Antonini Three stories that shed light on how an ancient and essential trade is changing: Miriana Brovedani, who grew up amongst cows and barns; Giorgia Bertoli, who took over her grandparents  farm; and Pamela Maggioni, the shepherdess, who goes to Cortina every year   and not for a holiday A s the name itself points out, the alpine dairyman is traditionally a man s trade. And the same goes for the cheesemaker, the cowherd and the shepherd. But perhaps this is no longer true, because even in the traditional world of agriculture   even at high altitudes, even in the villages of Carnia and the Pordenone area   women have made their mark and shaken things up. More and more women are carrying on these ancient practices   which are essential for keeping small communities alive   without needing a man by their side. As the three stories we are about to tell demonstrate. 2 

Miriana: following in her father s footsteps Cheese and accommodation In a sense, Miriana Brovedani was born in the On the other hand, the Meleit alpine dairy is certainly mountain dairy. This happened thanks to (or because thriving. Its products are becoming increasingly of, depending on the point of view or perhaps how popular, and that s the kind of feedback Miriana is tiring the day has been) her father Mario, the long- happy to note down in her book of achievements: standing manager of the Meleit mountain dairy in  In the early days, there wasn t much business,  she the municipality of Sutrio, on the Zoncolan ridge, at explains with her usual frankness,  but now there s a 1,575 metres above sea level. A dairyMAN very much in constant stream of people from late June until early keeping with the times. And yet it is Mario himself who September, when we re open to the public.  Alongside has placed his trust in his daughter, who is still very cheese, ricotta and butter   the typical products of the young but has been running the small family business mountain dairy   ice cream is also a big hit. for 13 years now. After all, as she herself recalled in an And then there s the option to have lunch or dinner, old interview, at the age of 7 she was already dragging and even to stay overnight thanks to the agritourism a wheelbarrow around the barn the family had just accommodation, with guests often coming from bought. It was therefore only natural that she should outside the region, perhaps drawn by the fame of the learn, almost as if it were a game, the many daily chores Zoncolan, which has made a name for itself everywhere of a life that is certainly not as polished as the one you thanks to the Giro d Italia.  We don t do much might see on a TV commercial. advertising. Word of mouth is what counts most.  The No holidays or breaks problem, if anything, is finding people willing to work during peak season, when extra staff are needed. almost disarming.  Well, as for the difficulties, I wouldn t The alpine dairy provides a livelihood know where to start  . Let s try to put them in order:  I As part of this rural life   which, in reality, does not end haven t been anywhere for four years. There s simply no with the summer season because, once they return such thing as holidays or breaks.  The problem is that home to Piano d Arta, there are always animals to look  yes, I could leave my father on his own, but it s hard after   transhumance continues to play a role, with work for someone who s no longer young. He s happy the flocks taken up to the high pastures and led to to leave me on my own, but I m not able to do the same graze.  Now we set off by lorry,  explains Ms Brovedani, thing with him.  And then there are the animals. That  and only then do we walk the remaining 5-kilometre is, about forty dairy cows and a dozen or so pigs, as well stretch.  And speaking of transport links, the past as a few hens.  Entrusting the animals to someone else problems with the local council and the authorities isn t easy at all,  says the young Brovedani,  precisely seem to have been resolved:  The road leading to the because they aren t people and each one has its own mountain pasture has been repaired. I can see there s particular traits and quirks. You might be able to rely on greater understanding for those of us who do this sort staff to run the kitchen and the restaurant, but when it of work.  It doesn t make you rich, but it still provides comes to looking after the animals  I don t really trust a livelihood if it s true   as stated in the Ersa reports   them. Even though we could use some extra staff.  that there are around fifty mountain pastures in Friuli When we ask Miriana whether her job brings more difficulties or rewards, her answer is sincere, instinctive, 3 

Women of the alpine dairies, a new Friulano, the stories behind Friulian wine labels and the Isonzo Valley. June 2026 issue