future and innovation ] WINE DOES NOT EXIST [by Matteo Bellotto ] I admit it candidly. The title is designed solely to draw you to the first line, among these words: to make you read them, to make you stay or to let you go. It s up to you, but I will try, among these letters that chase each other to find meaning, to delve deep into what the word present means, and then let go of other words that cannot dwell in the present. Now follow me A winter day A splendid winter day has just ended. The few hours of daylight have treated the eyes to views that only the Friuli Venezia Giulia region can offer, with the infinite embrace of the Alps welcoming anyone who decides to venture there. I left the cold outside to converse with the darkness and the stars that compete with the streetlights for light. The warmth of the radiator next to my chair accompanies the sounds of the keyboard, while the cat, stretched out like a sphinx on the bed, halfcloses its eyes, keeping watch over the noises of the house. I opened a bottle of Pinot Bianco Friuli Colli Orientali, which was a gift from a friend and had been waiting for a while to relax in the glass. The wine is cold, aloof, delicate and reminds me of the smile on my friend s face when he was giving it to me. The stereo is playing Nick Cave s dark melodies, while outside you can hear the voices of groups of friends enjoying the onset of the evening. The world that runs through me Around me, I feel the universe manifesting itself through my body, and the wine I am tasting reminds me that I am part of this universe, of this indistinct whole of all elements. As Spinoza said: deus sive natura, God is nature, the whole, every world and every part that makes us perceive our existence. I don t want this to sound like a rhetorical game of chasing words, but let me tell you something: right now, wine doesn t exist, but wine is me and the world that flows through me. In the complex and profound concept of terroir, where the elements of land, place, climate and man come together, we always try to find a synthesis through only one of the elements at a time. Often, during tastings, I have heard people say, and then there is the human element... , correctly referring to how wine is linked to its producer, but too often without taking into account the taster, the diner, the person drinking the wine as part of the concept of terroir. Over time, this gap has created the distance we now talk about between generations, where wine, with its conflicting concepts (geology, often oversimplified, climate, and all the other elements 5