Pietro Stara è autore del libro “Il discorso del vino” (ZIC Milano, 2013), con cui ha vinto, nel 2015, il premio per la saggistica edita del Centro Pavesiano – CEPAM e del libro “Il vino e la storia” (Sabatelli editore, Savona 2025). La sua ricerca si concentra sul mondo del vino, esplorando temi legati alla sua storia, alla viticoltura e all’enologia. Collabora con diverse testate giornalistiche, sia online che cartacee, approfondendo le tematiche relative al settore. Oltre al suo impegno nel giornalismo, insegna antropologia culturale e sociologia dei consumi, come docente a contratto, presso l’Università di Scienze Gastronomiche di Pollenzo.

Pietro Stara

Pietro Stara, autore di "Il discorso del vino" e "Il vino e la storia". Scrittore ed esperto che esplora cultura, storia e filosofia del vino.

Pietro Stara - Autore | Il discorso del vino, Il vino e la

The history of grignolino: roots and legacy of a great Piedmontese grape Dive into the enigmatic world of grignolino with this compelling historical investigation by renowned researcher Pietro Stara. Using an "evidential paradigm"—a detective-like approach—Stara uncovers the mysteries and complex identities of a grape variety that has shaped Piedmontese viticulture, yet whose history has often been overlooked. A historical enigma unfolds The journey begins in the 13th century (1249), tracing the grape’s earliest footsteps back to the monks of Sant’Evasio in Casale Monferrato. At the time, it was known as "Berbesino" or "Barbesino". It wasn’t until a 1614 inventory of the Casale Castle that the name "grignolino" finally appeared in official records. Key highlights of the research: The identity quest: discover how 19th-century ampelographers like Demaria, Leardi, and the traveler Giorgio Gallesio solved the puzzle of its many synonyms, confirming that the "barbesino" of Alessandria and the "grignolino" of Asti were, in fact, the same soul. The etymological debate: the book tackles the fierce disputes linking grignolino to barbera, debunking myths through the rigorous historical analysis of scholars like Senator Desana and Dalmasso. A sparkling past: in a surprising revelation, the text explores grignolino’s role as a pioneer of Italian sparkling wine. Long before its current still-wine reputation, it was crafted using the Méthode Champenoise, winning prestigious awards and ranking as a top choice for spumante production as late as 1924. The white mystery: the investigation even touches upon the elusive "white grignolino," a rare variety mentioned in historical texts and immortalized in the famous 1858 wax fruit models by Francesco Garnier Valletti.

1. History, mathematics and abduction

2. The nineteenth-century ampelographies and Grignolino, or Barbesino

3. Grignolino - TABLE XXI

4. Giorgio Gallesio. The travel journals

5. The nineteenth and twentieth centuries

6. Aldo di Ricaldone and the erroneous attribution of barbesine grapes to ancient Barbera

7. Desana and the refutation of the theses proposed by Father Coppo and then by Giovanni Aldo di Ricaldone

8. A viticultural sub-lexicon

9. A white barbesino or a white Grignolino?

10. Grignolino and the traditional method

11. Documentary appendix

12. Bibliography

11 Documentary appendix Texts freely translated from medieval Latin1 Document of October 2, 1250 Lord Ottobono of Coniolo, provost of the Church of Casale, with the participation of the massari and other canons, grants land to be transformed into a vineyard to Oberto Binello (October 2, 1250). Sources: Original document in ACC, box III. Publication method: Only the essential part is reported, omitting ritual formulas. In the year of the Incarnation of the Lord 1250, eighth indiction, on the 2nd day of October. In the cloister of the Church of San Evasio, Lord Ottobono of Coniolo, provost of the church, together with the rectors and ministers of the church, including canons Henrici de Garbella and Uberto Lecaseni, grants in perpetual lease to Obertum Binellum 6 stari of cultivable land situated in the territory of Casale, in the locality "Val Val valixenda". 1. Ferdinando Gabotto, Umberto Fisso (eds.), Le carte dello Archivio Capitolare di Casale Monferrato 1no al 3b3b, (Two volumes), Tipograza Pietro Celan9a, Pinerolo, 1704, Vol. I, pp. 1D-25 

MOCUNERTAYX APPERMI8 3W Boundaries: on one side the church, on the other the property of Guala Falchetai and Guala de Nagistro Ardicio. Oberto commits to cultivating and planting the vineyard (xonis xarxeuinis), harvesting the fruits for zve years. At the end of this period, he must deliver to the church one third of the grape harvest. Jitnesses present:  acobus Calcaneus, master Petrinus de Yivatella, Gilfredus Burionus and  ulianus de Canevessi(o). Seal: I, Ricolus Grassus, notary of the Holy Empire, by order of the late notary  acobi Turris, have drawn up this charter. Document of October 13, 1250 Lord Ottobono of Coniolo, provost of the Church of Casale, with the participation of other canons, exchanges properties with Guglielmo di Busca (October 1W, 1250). Sources: Original document in ACC, box III. Publication method: Only the essential part is reported, omitting ritual formulas. In the year of the Incarnation of the Lord 1250, seventh indiction, on the 1Wth day of October. In the place of Casale, the Chapter of Canons of the Church of San Evasio being assembled, in the presence of provost Ottobono of Coniolo and canons Guala Falceta, Enrico de Garbela, Oto de Casis and Bricius Yelion, an exchange agreement is concluded between the Church and Guglielmo de Buschia. The Church cedes to Guglielmo some lands and land rights situated in Casale, in the locality called "Yoput Luagnanum". Boundaries: on one side the church, on the other the property of Nateldani and the sons of the late Giuglaro. 

Roots and Evidence of a Great Piedmontese Grape Variety - The History of Grignolino